我：Guidebook寫11c欸
友：對啊，幹嘛？
我：我怎麼聽到11a？
友：你聽錯吧，我不可能說11a啦
我：蛤？？我聽到11a才上去的欸
Me: The guidebook says it's 11c???
Friend: Yeah, why?
Me: How come I heard it's 11a?!
Friend: You must have misheard!! I couldn't have said 11a. impossible!
Me: Huh? the only reason that I tried was cuz I heard 11a!
一個莫名其妙爬過 11c 難關的故事，雖然 Mountain project 普遍認為這個難關沒有到 11c，但，這再次讓我知道不該用級數來衡量自己的有限性與可能性。
Although Mountain Project generally disagrees with the difficulty being 11c, this experience reminded me not to measure my limitations and possibilities solely by grades. Grades of a climb is given by human beings. And you/we are one of them. We could grade a route by ourselves after trying it. The point, here, is TRYING it.
跟 Paul 一起攀岩時，他偶爾會不告訴我們級數，讓我們直接上牆，藉此讓我們把自己發揮到極致，有一次 Chris 快要爬過一條 Moonboard 40度的V7，我卻不小心看到Paul的手機暴雷出那一條是V7，最後Chris......可能是心智受到了影響或身體太累了，快過的線卻沒有爬過，Paul 說都是我 fuck up 他的腦袋了。
When climbing with Paul, he sometimes doesn't tell us the grades, letting us climb directly to bring out our best. Once, Chris was about to climb a V7 on the Moonboard, and I accidentally saw on Paul's phone that it was a V7. In the end, Chris... maybe influenced mentally or physically too tired, couldn't finish the climb. Paul said I messed up his mind. Its on me, lol.
兩天一夜的龍洞之旅，在 Maurice 的帶領下，依舊有諸多嶄新的體驗。
上次去龍洞還是多年前的超新手，參加 iClimb 風城的gumby團，忘記是哪個教練（家祝？）的帶領，去爬了完全沒印象的區域（校門口？畢竟過橫渡牆可能會死人？）。
橫渡牆，不知道該怎麼說，南加州Malibu的橫渡牆掉下去頂多是摔到湖裡面全身濕掉，龍洞的橫渡牆...........呃，爬到一半拿出手機拍照的我：這個下去....沒了吧？
友（語帶保留）：你想聽故事嗎？
我：乾～～等我爬過去再說！或者等爬完回去再說！
A two-day trip to Long Dong led by Maurice provided many new experiences. The last time I went to Long Dong was years ago as a complete beginner, joining an GUMBY group led by an instructor. I couldn't even remember the climbs I did last time. legit left no impression.
The traverse wall, hard to describe. Falling off the traverse wall in Malibu, Southern California, would at most result in landing in a lake, completely wet. Long Dong's traverse wall... well, halfway up, me taking out my phone for a photo: "falling from here....you're dead, right?"
Friend (with a weird smile): "Do you want to hear the story?"
Me: "NO!!!!! Come on! let me get over first! Or tell me after climbing!"
這次去龍洞，因為跟到了傳攀大老，所以有幸可以second傳攀路線，學會了怎麼收cam。
我：傳攀的級數跟運攀不一樣對吧？
他：一樣啦！
我：幹我才不信！！！
他：你不是喜歡塞手嗎？
我：我喜歡啊，但我沒帶白貼啦（崩潰）！！
This time in Long Dong, following the trad-climbing veteran, I had the opportunity to second trad routes and learned how to take off cams.
ME: Trad climbing grades are different from sport climbing, right?
Him: It's the same.
Me: I don't believe it!!!
Him: Don't you like jamming hands?
Me: I do, but I didn't bring tape (frustrated)!!
Boulder bros we have no gear, no phone bag, no ATC (I thought a grigri is enough lol)....
大概就是這樣，一路該該叫，第一天爬了三條線。第二天早上，氣象預報說下雨了，結果大家都沒有要來龍洞，住在龍洞青年旅館的我，一個人退房，把行李都到車上後又往海邊走去，發現天氣還不錯，開始當起龍洞現場氣象預報員，一下拍照片、一下拔草測風向，一下雲朵觀測，後來，就在我還在石頭上走跳時，Maurice說他已經快到萬華火車站了 = =
Climbed three routes on the first day. The next morning, the weather forecast said it would rain, and no one wanted to come to Long Dong. As someone staying at the Long Dong Youth Hostel, I checked out alone, put my luggage in the car, and walked to the crag. The weather seemed fine, so I became the on-site weather forecaster, taking pictures, checking wind direction, observing clouds. Later, while I was still hopping on rocks, Maurice said he was almost at Wanhua Railway Station = = well, what an activist.
一個小時後我就在瑞芳車站吃到好吃的蔥燒餅夾蛋，接到Maurice，又和開車過來的Nikki會合。結果這天天氣非常好，風很舒服很適合攀岩，石頭的摩擦力也異常的好（手皮痛到爆），爬了三個小時，體驗了經典路線 Oh! 和 Oh No! ——雖然兩條我都只想大叫 Oh NO 啦。那天的名言就是，「所有有overhang的5.8都是假的5.8」，就像我朋友說的：Joshua Tree 5.9以下的路線一概都是 5.9 。
我懷疑我是被拐上 Oh no! 的，我為什麼會聽到 11a 呢？想著 top rope 很安全我就上去了，結果爬了 30分鐘，一邊爬一邊哭一邊休一邊研究所有的手點跟腳點。手點都超級無敵爛，上高腳很累但其實腳點還不錯，缺點就是太害怕fall所以手會過於緊繃，真的太久沒爬高了。所幸關關難過關關過，還是爬完了，感謝飛天小貝爾的努力，做得好，替自己感到驕傲，晚上回家抱著手皮哭。謝謝Nikki和Maurice，活著回來了。
An hour later, I was enjoying a delicious green onion pancake with micro-wave egg at Rueifang Station, picked up Maurice, and met Nikki who drove over. Turns out, the weather was excellent that day, the wind was comfortable for climbing, and the friction of the rocks was exceptionally good (awful for my skin). Climbed for three hours, experienced the classic routes "Oh!" and "Oh No!" -- Though for both routes, I just wanted to scream "Oh NO." The quote of the day was, "All 5.8s with overhangs are fake 5.8s," just like my friend said: "Below 5.9 in Joshua Tree, they're all 5.9."
I suspect I was led onto "Oh No!" Why did I hear 11a? Thinking top rope is safe, I went up and tried Oh NO! I climbed, cried, rested, and analyzed all hand and foot positions, for 30 mins. Hand holds were terrible. High foot was tiring, but foot placements were fine. The downside was being too afraid of falling, so my hands were overly tense. Haven't sport climbed in so long. Fortunately, overcoming difficulties, I finished climbing. Thanks to Nikki and Maurice, and thank myself for getting home safely.
It's just another day of climbing! :)
1/8
Wedding Route | 結婚路線
Moby Dick | 白鯨記
+ Starbuck | 星巴克 (crux過不去，試到手廢掉最後被拖上去)
Golden Gate Slab | 金門斜版
1/9
Oh!
Oh No! (Slab variation)
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