World-class route setters from Maboo Climbing Gym in Tokyo, Japan, brought their theory of "flow" in climbing and held a workshop at iClimb Shengli, Hsinchu, Taiwan. The workshop primarily targeted route setters, with an additional 3-day climbing course tailored for beginners (V2 and above).
I was fortunate to join the climbing course, a 3-day experience that improved my climbing weaknesses.
But first, some background here: I wasn't into sports AT ALL before discovering climbing. After relocating to Los Angeles, I fell in love with outdoor climbing and bouldering. Starting a new sport was incredibly challenging for me, especially given my lack of experience in physical activities. I struggled to understand how to use my body, feeling disconnected from it. I made progress from VB to V3/4s outdoors until I injured my knee. Progress has slowed down in the past few months, partly due to the recovery and partly because of my climbing "form". Despite friends' efforts to help, I struggled with basic concepts like engaging the correct muscles. (Special thanks here go to my friend Ralf, who has seen my struggle and has been trying hard to offer his help)
Anyway, back to Maboo. As mentioned earlier, the workshop spanned 3 days. We were somewhat uncertain about what to expect before it commenced.
Day 1 Lots of Training
On Day 1, the focus was primarily on climbing. We began the morning session by climbing two V2 routes repeatedly, ENDLESSLY. Our coach, Hibiki, observed every aspect of our body positioning and movements, providing corrections as needed. "Form" of climbing is important according to him.
In the afternoon, we shifted to the second floor of the gym, where we encountered a range of problems spanning from V1/2 to V3. While none of the challenges were excessively difficult, the continuous climbing took away our energy. Focusing on body forms required concentration. Personally, I found myself repeating one particular problem for at least 15 times or even more. According to Hibiki, students at Maboo have to climb 1000 times per day. Despite the fatigue, I noticed an improvement in my movements by the end of the session. It was truly nice to witness such progress within a single session!
Hibiki pointed out that my grip was overly tight due to weak forearm muscles. He advised me to relax my forearm and shoulder while focusing on activating my back muscles during climbs. He introduced a method to engage these muscles effectively:
Engage the muscles in my back by folding my armpits inward.
Keep my chest open to maintain proper form.
Utilize my feet to elevate my body, ensuring it remains higher. This prevents over-reliance on shoulder strength and encourages the engagement of the back muscles.
Building upon Toki's earlier highlight regarding gripping techniques, Hibiki guided us in practical exercises to implement these concepts. Image gripping the holds with your thumb and your pinky fingers. This naturally encourages the engagement of your back muscles during climbing. Conversely, if you find yourself gripping with your thumb and index finger (which it's strong and natural too) and pressing hard on them, you're likely relying more on your shoulder strength than your back muscles.
Basically, what Paul (my friend in California) used to tell me “step-flag-reach” worked well in the optimisation workshop. When I stepped and flagged, I put tension on my stepping legs and elevated my body. Staying higher and a little bit far from the wall with straight arms helped me use my back muscles more. (PS: Hibiki commented on Paul, saying "He knows climbing well!" - which is true.)
Well, jus like my Ph.D. study, connecting theoretical knowledge to practical application can indeed be challenging. It requires consistent practice and time to develop accuracy. Despite being repeatedly told that I wasn't properly engaging my back muscles while climbing, I struggled to grasp the concept and activate the muscle effectively. Sometimes it could be frustrating. I knew the problem but I did not know how to fix the problem.
However, today marked a significant breakthrough for me. The highlight of the day was finally succeeding in activating my back muscles in a detailed manner during climbs. This newfound awareness and ability emerged gradually, particularly becoming noticeable after the afternoon session. Moreover, I gained insight into how to discern whether I was relying on my shoulders rather than my back, a skill that will undoubtedly benefit my future climbing.
Day 2-3 Route Setting
On Day 2 and Day 3, our climbing activities were limited due to fatigue from the previous day's climbing. Consequently, we had the opportunity to assist the route-setting team. Our primary role was to test the routes for the setters, especially when none of them climb V3 lol.
I’m not a route setter. We used to point at holds and set a route for each other while training at Paul's. However, setting routes on a clean wall presented a different challenge altogether. Since joining iClimb, I've only set three routes so far. But, I totally understand how hard route setting is and how exhausted it could be. It demands not only mental focus but also physical exertion.
When it comes to route setting, three key elements are considered in grading: RIC, which stands for Risk, Intensity, and Complexity.Risk involves the element of danger or fear that climbers may experience on the wall, akin to the "R" rating in outdoor climbing (e.g., V5R indicating a V5 route with risky falls). Intensity reflects the perceived difficulty level of a route, which is typically what climbers think about when considering grades. Complexity refers to the intricacy of a route, including the variety of movements and sequences required to complete it.
I like how Toki mentions “the space” of the wall (空間感). When a customer walks into a gym, they don't just see individual problems; they perceive the entirety of the climbing wall. Therefore, the overall feeling and appearance of the wall are crucial factors. Is the wall balanced in its layout? Does it look beautiful or interesting? Do I feel drawn to climb it? Those questions and the associated feelings turn out to be significant.
Toki's emphasis on "teamwork" and "communication" during route setting highlight their importance in creating a positive working experience and efficiency. Providing feedback to one another and considering the needs of climbers are important in this process.
I feel that being a good route setter requires a certain personality. If you care more about other people/climbers, you prioritize understanding how they climb and whether they enjoy the experience. You prioritize the well-being and enjoyment of climbers and do not set routes solely based on your own preferences. Similarly, if you are more considerate of others, you probably do not have a strong ego, allowing you to accept feedback from climbers. We all have heard some stories like where climbers comment certain routes as "soft," and in response, setters become defensive, gradually increasing the difficulty of routes in the gym. This behavior strikes me as childish. Climbing isn't about destroying; it's about understanding what humans can accomplish, how we can connect with our own bodies, how the climbing community can support each other, and where we are on the Earth.
As I am more of an outdoor climber, we outdoorsy folks all know that sometimes an outdoor V2 might be hard as hell. Even experienced climbers encounter challenges on routes that may seem easier on paper. (Well, even my friend who climbs V12 once struggled on a V1 unique stone!) Being humble in climbing is fundamental, and understanding how Mother/Father Nature and/or human bodies connects to human existence is an integral part of the game.
Flow
Talking about the 'flow' of climbing, it is abstract and hard to describe. Maboo's setters have their knowledge of biomechanics (身體力學). Their idea is to help climbers, especially beginners, develop the correct muscles for climbing; creating 'flow' is necessarily important. A route with flow would direct the climbers to activate the right muscles and guide them in the correct direction during the climb. You will not feel uncomfortable or over-twist your body (wrists, ankles, etc.). The style becomes more and more obvious as you climb their routes. Certain muscles feel more activated, and the direction of where you are going seems to be obvious. When you step on your feet, your hands are naturally guided to the next hold."
Of course, as Samuel (文豪) mentioned in the interview (see Instagram @iClimb_Shengli), routes with flow might not be appealing to pro-climbers who seek challenges. Sometimes, disrupting the flow can add difficulty and excite climbers. Maboo's setters often design routes with a fluid flow initially and then intentionally disrupt it to increase the challenge.
To be honest, while we certainly understand how we eager for challenges in climbing, cultivating climbing-specific muscles is crucial, especially for beginners. Therefore, in my personal opinion, problems with a smooth 'flow' would be beneficial for beginners. Even spending time continuously climbing the same route can aid in improving and refining beginners' climbing technique."
On the other hand, climbing routes with poor flow does not mean to be negative. Outdoor sport climbing routes and bouldering problems are often created naturally, without consideration for ideal flow and biomechanics. Despite this, climbers can still get stronger and enhance their kills through these outdoor experiences.
Conclusion
For professional climbers and route setters already well-versed in contemporary Japanese climbing styles, what Maboo provided in this workshop might have seemed relatively easy and limited. However, for beginners like myself, climbers who haven't focused on biomechanics, or even setters who create routes without a strong theoretical foundation, the knowledge and practices offered by Maboo truly broaden the horizons of climbing and route setting.
In conclusion, the workshop by Maboo Climbing Gym has been a transformative experience, particularly for myself. It has offered valuable insights into climbing technique and route setting. The emphasis on 'flow' and biomechanics has opened new avenues for growth, not only for beginners like myself but perhaps for some seasoned climbers as well. As continuing our climbing journeys, we strive for continual improvement, both on and off the wall.
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