Day 4 - multi-pitches
八點忽然被催促要集合，瘋狂飛奔到岩店，上車去搭船。開到起攀地點後，發現現在漲潮，只能從船上起攀。早上九點，TC開始上攀，我在船上belay，真是特別的體驗，因為船會不停地前後晃到，繩索會忽長忽短，我判斷TC不太可能fall，一直給的比較寬鬆，免得他被繩子扯下來...... 但船不停地撞岩牆跟礁石，嚮導瘋狂在左邊跟右邊幫忙頂牆，避免船撞岩壁。撞擊力道每下都很強，我在船上站得搖搖晃晃，也看得心驚膽跳。
過了一陣子，TC已經到了第一個anchor。忽然發現來了一艘很高級的快艇，岩店的老闆從那艘快艇跳到我們船上，拿給我們一袋對講機，接著用英文說要叫TC下來，他說船這樣撞很不安全，很快就會解體了。
來自智利的嚮導忙著解釋，他已經到第一個anchor了，已經要換我爬了。但老闆堅持，轉頭跟我說他是老闆，這樣不安全，應該等退潮再來。他說現在不單單是漲潮，今天還是大潮，風浪非常大。Cat Ba附近平常好像都沒甚麼風浪，我們在的那幾天比較特殊遇到的大浪。於是，我們對著上方洞穴大喊把TC叫下來，把快扣留在牆上，開船去旁邊的海灘上等待，這時大概早上十點。
潮水退得比我們想的還要慢，大概等了快兩小時，看其他岩店的人在秀一波rebolting，躺在沙灘上餵跳蚤。最後嚮導看潮水還沒退，但已經十二點了，就問我們要不要涉水過去開始爬，現在水大概到膝蓋。我們一秒答應，想說再不爬等等回家都天黑了。於是就拿著繩索跟裝備，涉水到了起攀點附近，TC開始第二次上攀。接著是我，爬到了第一個洞穴跟TC會合。
我們的計劃是把 pitch 2 & 3 連起來爬，因為中間的anchor 處很難休息，擠三個人會很不舒服。TC lead pitch 1 & 4，嚮導lead pitch 2 & 3，我全程跟攀仔。難關在 pitch 爬出洞穴前，難關 fall 就會回不了牆，昨天嚮導才會花很多時間教回牆壁的自救法。看他lead上去時，發現前一天下雨手腳點都濕滑，他爬得極其痛苦，爬過後甚至要 take ，我就知道我毀了 XD
換我的時候，我爬到難關，摸了一下沒有找到很直覺能夠爬過去的方法，就決定延長 bolt，先把 PAS 掛過去。這時候還沒有把重量放在PAS上，有繼續嘗試摸附近任何可能的手點，最後覺得沒辦法，就把 PAS 收緊，開始幫樹希探路，盡量在手點上先打好粉。現在回想路線，我還是不知道怎麼爬，樹希後來有順利通過，他說重點是側拉後把左腳踩開，只是看起來會很可怕。
總之，過難關後一路順暢，爬出洞穴的部分真的很酷，要轉成背對岩壁，把包包、頭、肩膀、背、屁股依序擠出岩壁，倒退嚕出去。結果爬出去後立刻到一個overhang session，我心裡暗罵了一下之後繼續爬。第二段大部分是很尖銳的腳點slab，摩擦力非常好，不過我一不小心走太右邊，是沒有手點的overhang，後來用一個很吃力的姿勢爬回左邊的slab。當時覺得自己要fall，我還對上方大喊TAKE！！！！事後嚮導說他完全沒有聽見。我沒有感受到繩子收緊，就想說哭啊沒有take只能硬爬，真的是擠出吃奶的力氣完成那一動，再次感受到人類的潛力無窮欸。
連續爬10b + 10a 對抱石仔來說真的吃力的事情，到好險也順利過去了，到了第三個anchor跟嚮導碰慢，再等樹希爬上來。這時候閒聊了一下台灣跟智利的食物，他說他上個月人也在台灣，走了東海岸整條線，可惜沒有去龍洞攀岩，我直接力邀他再來台灣一起去攀岩。他說他想找個在台灣當戶外攀岩嚮導的工作，還聊到智利的多繩距動不動就三、四百公尺起跳，他人生第一條多繩距就是級數4左右穿著攀登鞋（震宇說接近鞋是支語，要說攀登鞋）爬完的300公尺路線。
最後一段爬完之後，我們就依序垂降，我也用上了我剛學會的普魯士繩當第三隻手，垂降時看著海邊的風景，慢慢回到地面，一腳踏入海裡，發現潮水到現在也沒有退多少。這時候是下午四點。離開岩店的時候很想跟嚮導抱抱，但我忍住了，恪守了亞洲人的文化習慣，沒有多餘的肢體接觸，但這一天——真ㄉ真ㄉ真ㄉx100——很感謝嚮導還有樹希的各種carry，讓我這種繩索小白也有機會體驗爬上70m高空的感覺，除了體驗很新以外、還學到很多新的知識。多繩結束之後，有覺得想多去成功館跟繩子當好朋友的感覺（畢竟我不怕高，在某種方面好像還蠻吃香的）。
晚上回旅館洗澡，等其他夥伴回來集合後，出門吃飯夜遊。騎機車三貼，還學當地人亂按喇叭，超級好笑，結果只有我們這車在按喇叭，雖然河內充滿了喇叭聲，但Cat Ba都是歐洲遊客，根本沒有河內那種嘈雜的交通，最吵的就是我們XD。
好像是這一天吃了「鱟」，味道很奇怪，旁邊的麵條比較好吃，這天晚餐點餐失敗，一堆雞肉都沒吃完，餐廳的炒泡麵最好吃。「鱟」吃完大家肚子都有點痛，唯獨吃最多的阿諾沒事，深感佩服欸。想要跟店家拿小碗來分，結果語言不同，店家拿給我們一個超級巨大的碗公。
At 8 am, we were suddenly urged to gather and rushed to the climbing shop, then boarded the boat. Upon arriving at the climbing site, we found that the tide was rising, and we could only start climbing from the boat. At 9 am, TC began climbing, and I belayed from the boat. It was a unique experience because the boat kept rocking back and forth, causing the rope to fluctuate in length. I judged that TC was unlikely to fall and kept the belay slightly loose to prevent him from being pulled down by the rope... But the boat kept hitting the rock wall and reefs, while the guide frantically braced against the left and right sides to prevent the boat from hitting the wall. The impact was strong each time, and I was swaying on the boat, feeling nervous.
After a while, TC reached the first anchor. Suddenly, a high-end speedboat arrived, and the owner of the climbing shop jumped from that boat to ours, handing us a bag of walkie-talkies. He then spoke in English, asking to bring TC down as the boat hitting the rocks was unsafe and could disintegrate soon.
The guide from Chile was busy explaining that TC had already reached the first anchor and was about to switch with me. But the owner insisted, turning to me and saying that as the owner, it was unsafe to continue and we should wait for the tide to recede. He mentioned it wasn't just high tide but also a big one for the day, with very rough waves. Apparently, Cat Ba area doesn't usually experience such rough waves, and we were encountering them during our stay. So, we shouted for TC to come down from the cave, secured the quickdraws on the wall, and sailed to the nearby beach to wait. It was around 10 am.
The tide receded slower than expected. After waiting for almost two hours, we watched people from other climbing shops rebolting routes while lying on the beach, avoiding sand fleas. Eventually, the guide saw that the tide hadn't receded much, but it was already noon. He asked if we wanted to wade across and start climbing since the water was only knee-deep. We immediately agreed, thinking if we didn't climb now, it would be dark by the time we got home. So, we grabbed our ropes and gear, waded to the climbing spot, and TC started climbing for the second time. Then it was my turn, and I climbed up to meet TC at the first cave.
Our plan was to link pitches 2 & 3 because the anchor in the middle was not conducive for resting, and squeezing three people would be uncomfortable. TC led pitches 1 & 4, the guide led pitches 2 & 3, and I followed throughout. The challenge was before climbing out of the cave; if one fell, they couldn't get back to the wall. The guide had spent a lot of time the day before teaching how to self-rescue back to the wall. When he started leading, I noticed that the handholds and footholds were slippery from the rain the previous day, and he climbed painfully. After he passed, he even had to take a break, and I knew I was in trouble.... lol
When it was my turn, I climbed to the challenge but couldn't find an intuitive way to proceed, so I decided to extend the bolt and clip the Personal Anchor System (PAS). At that moment, I hadn't put weight on the PAS yet and continued to try to find any possible handholds nearby. Eventually, feeling helpless, I tightened the PAS and began helping TC find a way, trying to chalk the holds as much as possible. Looking back, I still didn't know how to climb the route, but TC managed to pass smoothly. He said the key was to step out with the left foot after side pulling, even though it looked scary.
Anyway, after overcoming the challenge, the rest of the climb went smoothly. Climbing out of the cave was really cool; you had to turn your back to the wall and squeeze out your bag, head, shoulders, back, and butt in that order. After climbing out, we immediately faced another overhang session. I cursed in my heart and continued climbing. The second section mostly consisted of sharp slab footholds with excellent friction. However, I accidentally went too far to the right, where there were no handholds, and had to climb back to the left slab in a very strenuous position. At that moment, I thought I was going to fall, and I shouted "TAKE!!" to the top, but the guide said he didn't hear it at all afterward. I didn't feel the rope tightening, so I had to climb without a take, and it took all my strength to complete the move. It once again reminded me of the infinite potential of humans.
Climbing two 10b + 10a pitches consecutively was really challenging for a boulderer like me, but luckily, I made it through. When we reached the third anchor, we waited for the guide and then TC to climb up. At this point, we chatted about Taiwanese and Chilean food. He mentioned he had been to Taiwan last month and traveled along the east coast, but unfortunately, didn't go climbing in Long Dong. I immediately invited him to come back to Taiwan to climb with us. He said he wanted to find a job as an outdoor climbing guide in Taiwan, and we also talked about how in Chile, multi-pitches of three to four hundred meters were common. His first multi-pitch climb was about a 300-meter route with a difficulty level around 4a to 4c, wearing approach shoes.
After completing the final pitch, we rappelled down one by one. I also used the Prusik loop I had just learned as a third hand. While rappelling and looking at the sea view, we slowly returned to the ground. As I stepped into the sea, I realized that the tide hadn't receded much yet. It was around 4 pm. When we left the climbing shop, I really wanted to hug the guide, but I held back, adhering to Asian cultural norms, avoiding unnecessary physical contact. But this day—really, really, really—made me deeply grateful to the guide and TC for all their assistance, allowing even a GUMBY like me to experience climbing 70 meters high. Besides the new experience, I also learned a lot of new knowledge. After the multi-pitch, I felt like I wanted to spend more time at the climbing gym and become friends with ropes (after all, I'm not afraid of heights).
In the evening, after showering at the hotel and gathering with other partners, we went out for dinner and a night stroll. I think we had "crab" that day, which tasted strange, but the noodles next to it were delicious. Dinner was a bit of a failure; a lot of chicken was left uneaten, and the restaurant's fried noodles were the best. After eating the "crab," everyone's stomachs felt a bit uncomfortable, except for Arnold, who ate the most and was fine, which was quite admirable.
Day 5 - Deep Water Solo
行前最期待的大概就是DWS，這天也是一大早就出發，嚮導是英文很不錯的Cat Ba當地人（他說家鄉在離岩店大概4hr的村落），目前是海防市的大學生，快要畢業了只差實習證明但他懶得去找店家幫忙簽證明書。在岩館打工的原因是他想要練習英文，可是看得出來他是少數很認真跟我們聊天的人 XD。
路線依序從簡單到難的開始爬，但其實第一條就 V1，第二條 traverse 就 V2+ 了...... 樹希跟阿諾有多爬好幾條，我跟周倫因為游泳的問題，一開始都非常怕下水。但我雖然不會游泳，第一條爬完跳下去之後，大概適應了感覺，就沒那麼害怕，後來還在水裡泡/游/玩了很久。倫寶則是第一條鼓起勇氣跳下水後，經歷了一場溺水救援，嚮導神反應直接跳下去把他拉回來，超級佩服。
當時覺得莫約是從八米高左右往下跳，回來看路書上面寫 15m、20m，有點驚訝？不管怎樣，屁股下水之後，我浮出水面第一句話幾乎是：「屁股好痛！！！！」上來之後，大腿後面都紅紅一片，到了晚上變成瘀青，隔天看起來超恐怖，後面幾天走在路上都會引人側目（但目前沒有人替我打113就是了）。
深水抱石的難關似乎都是在跳水，爬簡單的路線上去之後，總是要花很久時間心理準備才能跳。我後來都看著遠方牙一咬就跳，覺得死不了所以沒關係（極度低標）。但這次的心得是，好像可以直接去爬難的路線，掉下來就算了，不用在上面準備跳水！？
Sexy Lady 是嚮導帶我們去的最後一條路線，overhang 讓照片拍起來非常好看，人在牆上看起來也很帥，又恰巧有好幾個掛腳。第一段和第二段的難關，都是點與點距離偏遠，對臂展小的人相對很不利的一條路線。第一段中間稍微有一個小點可以拉一下，但DWS手上幾乎沒有粉，岩點也很潮濕，小點也相對難用，我靠著左邊的平台用雙手先幫忙把身體拉上來後才順利通過第一段難關、抓到右邊手點，接著就開始各種回頭拍照，這時候還很有力氣。內心也有點害怕，問大家我是不是該放手跳下去了，好險大家都沒有允許我這麼做，嚮導尤其一直大喊要我爬完，所以我繼續爬，接著是一段手點還不錯的 traverse，其中一個右手側拉因為腳點很爛所以有點害怕，在樹希的指點下通過。
最後難關，是右手肘卡在平台上後，左手往上reach到超級無敵遙遠的jug。我第一次出左手完全拉不到，整個人卡在那裡，接著想把右手肘網平台更裡面放，想說這樣我的身體可以再高一點，喬了一陣子後再次出左手，結果沒有力氣了，就直接墜海惹。這題只有阿諾完攀。
回來後內心覺得有點可惜，不知道自己可以爬那麼遠，所以前面浪費力氣在玩耍（雖然我一點都不後悔），也想說如果有第二次機會說不定就可以完攀。但也說服自己不要太過執著，出來玩還是開心跟體驗就好。大概是，最近的我，想要稍微放下一點點從Vy和Paul身上習得的對完攀的執著，多一點點快樂的部分，但這個部分要怎麼平衡與取捨，我也還在拿捏。
中午在海上的餐廳吃飯，很酷，很好吃。
下午滑kayak。阿諾嚮導一組，划出去直接看不見車尾燈。我跟樹希好累，默默看著瑞瑩周倫隊超越我們，卻還是不想努力！！划到海灘上，我跟阿諾商量著要把誰拖下水，陸續把夥伴丟進水裡（大部分都是阿諾的努力，我連跑步都追不上目標）。接著，眾人合力把阿諾埋起來，做了很巨大的GG和胸部，瑞瑩做了很巨大的奶頭，直接變成第三性，最後又做了六塊肌。路人紛紛讚賞不已。最後划船去看很酷的洞穴，我撿了一顆石頭回家。
在搭船返回的路上，大家或坐或躺在甲板上，都靜靜地睡著了。天空罕見地變成了藍色，霧散開後，遠處的石灰岩山林隱約可見，彷彿一幅極美的水墨畫。
晚餐去吃了嚮導打工的餐廳，炸春捲在哪裡點都很好吃。
The deep water soloing (DWS) was probably the most anticipated part of the trip for me. We set off early in the morning, accompanied by our guide, a local from Cat Ba with excellent English skills (he said his hometown was about 4 hours away from the climbing shop), currently a college student in Hai Phong city, about to graduate but too lazy to find a company for his internship certificate. He worked at the climbing store because he wanted to practice English. :)
We climbed routes in increasing difficulty, starting from easy ones to harder ones, but even the first one was V1, and the second traverse was already V2+... TC and Nono climbed several routes, but ZL and I were initially scared to get into the water due to our swimming skills. However, even though I couldn't really swim, after jumping into the water from the first climb, I adapted to the feeling and wasn't as scared anymore. Later, I spent a long time soaking/swimming/playing in the water. ZL, on the other hand, after summoning the courage to jump into the water for the first climb, experienced a drowning rescue. The guide had an amazing reaction and jumped in to pull him back, which was very admirable.
At that time, I thought the jumps were about eight meters high, but looking back at the guidebook, it said 15m and 20m, which was a bit surprising. Anyway, after hitting the water, the first thing I said when resurfacing was, "My butt hurts!!!" After coming up, the back of my thighs were all red, and by evening, they turned into bruises, looking terrifying the next day. For the next few days, people would look at me strangely when I walked by. It looks like I'm a domestic violence survivor (but no one called 911 for me).
The challenges in deep water soloing seemed to be mostly about the jumps. After climbing the easier routes, it always took a long time to mentally prepare for the jump. Later, I watched from a distance and just bit the bullet and jumped, thinking I wouldn't die, so it was okay. But this time, I realized I could just climb difficult routes and not worry about jumping off the top!?
Sexy Lady was the last route our guide took us to. The overhang style made for some really cool photos. Climbing on the wall looked very cool, especially with several heel hooks. The first and second sections of the route had distant holds, which were disadvantageous for people with short arm spans. In the first section, there was a small hold in the middle that could be used to rest slightly, but the rock was almost entirely chalkless, and the holds were wet, making them difficult to use. I relied on a platform on the left side to help pull myself up with both hands before successfully passing the first section, grabbing the right handhold. Then, I started taking various photos, feeling quite strong at that point. I was a little scared inside and asked if I should let go and jump, but luckily, no one allowed me to do so, especially the guide, who kept shouting for me to finish climbing.
So, I continued climbing, followed by a traverse with decent handholds, with one right-hand side pull that was a bit scary due to the bad foothold, but I managed to pass with TC’s guidance.
The final challenge was reaching a super distant jug with the left hand after the right elbow got stuck on a platform. The first time I reached out with my left hand, I couldn't reach at all, and I got stuck there. Then, I tried to move my right elbow further inside the platform to make my body a bit higher, and after struggling for a while, I reached out with my left hand again, but I had no strength left and fell into the water directly. Only Nono managed to complete this problem.
After returning, I felt a bit regretful that I didn't know I could climb that far. I wasted my energy playing around (although I didn't regret it at all!). I also thought that if I had a second chance, maybe I could have sent the climb. But I convinced myself not to be too attached and just enjoy the experience. It's probably that, recently, I've been trying to let go of some of the obsession with sending that I learned from Vy and Paul, and focus more on the enjoyable aspects, but how to balance between them is still something I'm figuring out.
We had lunch at a restaurant on the sea, which was cool and delicious.
In the afternoon, we went kayaking. Nono and the guide formed a group and paddled out until we couldn't see them. TC and I were tired and watched Jiying and ZL team overtook us, but we still didn't want to make an effort!! When we reached the beach, Nono and I discussed who to drag into the water, and then successively threw our companions into the water (mostly Nono’s efforts; I couldn't even catch up with the target when running). Then, everyone buried Nono in the sand, making a huge dick for them, and two boobies. Juiying made him two huge nipples, turning sandy Nono into a third gender, and finally the six-pack abs. Passersby praised us. In the end, we paddled to see some cool caves.
On the boat ride back, everyone was either sitting or lying on the deck, quietly falling asleep. The sky, rarely, turned blue, and after the mist dispersed, the distant limestone mountains and forests could be vaguely seen, resembling an incredibly beautiful ink painting.
For dinner, we went to the restaurant where our guide works, and no matter what we ordered, the spring rolls were delicious wherever we went.
Day 6~9- Hanoi
搭車回到Hanoi，再吃了超好吃餐廳，阿諾拿剩下的越南盾砸我，瑞瑩的肚子好小，就算東西很好吃也吃不下。下午跟大家說掰掰，沒有安排行程，依序去了巧克力店和蠟燭店。幫自己報名料理課程，學會做三道越南菜和雞蛋咖啡，前三道都沒有記起來，現在只記得雞蛋咖啡的食譜，歡迎大家來我家玩的時候點餐。
後面幾天：去了越南最大的連鎖攀岩館河內分店VietClimb，打聽了河內附近的戶外岩場；見到六年多沒見的朋友；在湖邊散漫地走著，一直到踩到金黃色的大便；去火車街被詐騙；吃了很多看起來不衛生的路邊攤但肚子都沒事情。還有，去不同的店家問一樣的東西多少錢，從300k到250k到200k再到150k，樹希說要從三成開始砍，但80k我真的喊不出口欸！
整體而言，河內很好玩。我喜歡那股混亂中帶著秩序、野蠻中帶著親切的氛圍。
We took a ride back to Hanoi and had another delicious meal at a restaurant. Nono jokingly threw leftover VND at me. Juiying’s stomach was so small that even though the food was delicious, she couldn't eat much. In the afternoon, I bid farewell to everyone. I visited a chocolate shop and a candle shop. I also signed up for a cooking class and learned to make three Vietnamese dishes and egg coffee. I can't remember the recipes for the first three dishes now, but I still recall the recipe for egg coffee. Feel free to order it when you visit my place!
In the following days: I visited the largest climbing gym in Vietnam, VietClimb, and inquired about outdoor climbing spots near Hanoi. I met a friend I hadn't seen in over six years. I took leisurely walks by the lake until I accidentally stepped on some golden poop. I got scammed at the train street, ate at many seemingly unsanitary street food stalls but didn't get sick. Also, I went to different stores asking for the same item, and the prices ranged from 300k to 150k VDN. TC said I should negotiate from 30% off, but I couldn't bring myself to ask for 80k lol.
Overall, Hanoi was a lot of fun. I enjoyed its chaotic yet orderly atmosphere and its warmth amidst the chaos.
（本文感謝 Chatgpt 協助翻譯）
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